Sunday, November 2, 2008

Old school Cinema at the Kabuki-za

The Kabuki-za of Ginza

Let me start off by saying I'm not a big fan of the Ginza shopping district. It reminds me way too much of Orange County or Beverly Hills in terms of yuppiness, and I generally steered clear of the area unless I felt a little homesick. One positive thing about Ginza is its rich history as a major trade center dating back to the 1800s. Culturally, the area has a lot going for it too, and the Kabuki-za theater definitely gives Asakusa some competition in the entertainment department. I stopped by to catch a "Makumi", which means one act from full program that usually consists of three acts. Viewing a full show can take up almost the whole day (5-6 hours), but a nice makumi matinee can have you in and out in under two hours.

I was fortunate enough to see the story of Sakamoto Ryoma, a revolutionary of his time who helped bring the fall to the Tokugawa shogunate, and moved Japan toward the Meiji restoration era. Basically, he's kind of like Mel Gibson in Lethal Weapon 2, without an annoying black sidekick or protruding nose hair.

You get to see intricate costumes, cascading mobile wooden scenery, and rotating floors that add to the depth of the theater. The acting was serious when it needed to be, yet threw in bits of comedy and a little cross-dressing humor that kept me entertained. The audience couldn't hide their sadness for Ryoma, and the ones who sat with me were crying after his tragic assassination. I found it simply adorable, and yes, I am a terrible person. The passion the audience had for the story made the price of admission a bargain. You can even rent an English language headset for a few hundred yen (with deposit) to add to the experience.


Getting there REALLY early is recommended to avoid the crowds.

We take our seats and I catch a shot of the stage before the act begins. Photos aren't allowed inside the theater.

The cast of the Za, with Somegoro starring as Sakamoto Ryoma

The line for the 1st program of the day. It actually wraps around the building just to purchase tickets for the show.

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